Mildreds, Soho
At precisely 12 o’clock in the heart of Soho the grande dame of London’s vegetarian luncheon scene opens its doors to the faithful. Mildreds loyal following of omnivores, vegetarians and vegans means you can be hard pushed to get a table any day of the week and today is not exception..
The place is packed full and very noisy. Raucous, reverberating laughter of a dreadlocked gentleman opposite harmonises with the bray of a toothy lady customer at an adjacent table. Orange leather banquettes flank each wall while a mirror at the end adds breadth the narrow diner lacks. The clientele ranges from those discussing the latest lines at Matches to those comparing notes on the latest non-pharmaceutical based anti-depressant. Next to us a twenty-something complains of a mother’s misgift of a Clarins makeup set when apparently, anything from Space.NK would have been so much better… No clichés here then.
Unlike a lot of vegetarian places I’ve been, the food at Mildreds is enjoyable by the fad obsessed and the rest of us alike. Served with a hunk of artisan bread the red pepper soup is fresh, zesty and vivacious – the sweet essence of the bell pepper contrasting beautifully with a soupçon of chilli. The organic ‘energising’ detox salad is as fresh as the name suggests and as invigorating as you might imagine. Fennel, coriander and toasted pumpkin seeds are augmented by the apple, lime and ginger dressing that goes some way to justify the ‘energising’ moniker.
Pistachio pesto linguini is strong and indulgent with courgettes and rocket complemented by hot cherry tomatoes. This distinctly two tone affair is served in huge portions that any one person would be pushed to finish alone.
The selection of puddings is reason enough to lunch here. Cherry chocolate truffle with fig coulis stood out among them, however the white chocolate and pistachio cheesecake was also a favourite.
It is refreshing that in a niche dominated by no-fat, no-carbs, no-flavour food a place like Mildreds is so popular. I like the fact that there are sweet potato fries on the menu, that there is no aversion to mozzarella and that all the puddings seem to have some kind of cream or chocolate in them. It seems as though I have to rescind on my carnivorous sensibilities and step up to the plate as an enthusiastic apologist for vegetarian food. It’s interesting, it’s exciting and it’s tasty.
Place: 4/5
Food: 4/5
Value: 4/5
Overall: 4/5*
Mildreds, 45 Lexington Street, Soho, London , W1F 9AN – 020 7494 1634 - mildreds.co.uk
Photo courtesy Ewan Munro.
