Mildreds, Soho
At precisely 12 o’clock in the heart of Soho the grande dame of London’s vegetarian luncheon scene opens its doors to the faithful. Mildreds loyal following of omnivores, vegetarians and vegans means you can be hard pushed to get a table any day of the week and today is not exception.. The place is packed … Read more
Prezzo, Victoria
Capsule review Garlic bread was hard, brittle and uninspired. Calamari reformed into a Jenga of limp cuboids. Spaghetti alla Carbonara enrobed in a tasteless sauce and fatty lardons. I ask Prezzo what I find myself asking more and more frequently, ‘Where’s the pancetta?’ Lobster and crab tortelli took the spirit of al dente a bit(e) … Read more
Les Deux Salons, Covent Garden
This autumn’s spate of much-anticipated openings has been a food lover’s dream. Legendary patissier Pierre Hermé opened his first London shop at the start of september, steakhouse Hawksmoor is to expand its (excellent) operation to Covent Garden and The Savoy Grill is to finally reopen its doors mid-November – around the same time Hakkasan Mayfair … Read more
Fire & Stone, Covent Garden
When I was first taken to Fire & Stone (Maiden Lane, Covent Garden) last year I was rendered quite speechless by the extremely high recessed-concrete ceiling. Returning earlier this week I was struck with a similar feeling of minimalist numinosity. If Fire & Stone were an art gallery or museum the ceiling would be nothing … Read more
